By Jason Phillips
Chef Ernie Danjean runs Cafe Nola and Hotel Defuniak in North Walton County, and could easily be the face of the downtown district. I recently visited Defuniak Springs for three days, and Chef Ernie made me feel at home, as he does with all of his guests. His masterful culinary skills and infectious exuberance made me eager to board the next train back to Defuniak Springs.
Hotel Defuniak
Chef Ernie is the general manager of Hotel Defuniak, which connects to his restaurant, Cafe Nola, adding another layer of charm to the restaurant’s chic elements. I did my homework on the hotel beforehand, and it did not disappoint. The European decor and 1920s aesthetic were just as appealing as it was in the videos I watched. A unique aspect of the hotel is that guests essentially have the run of the place. Although there is a proper cleaning crew, there is no desk service, save for Ernie when he has business to attend to, giving guests the freedom to roam around and soak in its history.
This latitude is rarely seen at other inns, and gives the air of being in a different time, a simpler time altogether. The room amenities combined with the original flooring and 1920s decor blended seamlessly for a pleasant experience that I would recommend to anyone wanting to catch a glimpse of “old Florida” and small-town charm.
Cafe Nola
Chef Ernie, a born and bred Cajun from New Orleans, decided to bring the colorful flavors of his upbringing to the colorful town of Defuniak Springs, and the community is grateful for it. My first dining experience introduced me to the sophisticated, inviting decor of the main dining room with its dark walls, perfect lighting, and gold ceiling.
As I sat down, Chef Ernie was making a Cajun-style brown sugar and spicy shrimp for dinner guests who had tried the dish in New Orleans. He has a delightful habit of mingling with his guests, and it appears to be his favorite part of his job.
Ever the gracious host, the chef prepared the dish from scratch, though it was not on the menu, and he prepared another plate for me. My first bite took me back to NOLA, one of my favorite culinary destinations. And that was before I even glanced at the menu.
The menu has just the right amount of dishes, including curated drinks. I started with the signature Cafe Nola Hurricane, served in a Cajun rimmed glass that perfectly matched the spices and flavors about to hit me. After talking with Ernie for several minutes, I knew I had to try his award-winning Gumbo. He enters the dish every year into various contests, and though it always does well, he took home first place in 2025. And, like any decent chef, he has not tweaked the recipe since. As the adage goes, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
The gumbo had the perfect amount of seasoning and heat, and it made me wonder why Ernie even puts salt and pepper on the tables. There is no need for them. Chef Ernie has found the perfect balance of location, scenery, charm, and flavor to take this restaurant to the next level, and I never saw it empty, even in the middle of the week.
Attractions
Cafe Nola and Hotel Defuniak are the ideal greeting for a North Walton County getaway. From Chef Ernie’s place, there are several shops and restaurants within a two-block radius, and none of them disappointed. Chef Ernie even tells his guests about them in a remarkable and courteous manner that every chef-operator should emulate. The courtesy is just a small part of how Defuniak Springs downtown is bringing back small-town America, and I am grateful for my visit and looking forward to the next one.
Breakfast at the Sweet Southern Comfort was an amazing experience. I was amazed by the numerous presidential exhibits and artifacts lining the walls, much like the antique weapons displayed in the library, the oldest in Florida. I also had the distinct pleasure of dining at the Iron and Grape for dinner, and its simple elegance and extensive wine list are reasons to visit Defuniak Springs on their own.
